Labuan Bajo went from a fishing town to the gateway for Komodo National Park in about fifteen years, and the local etiquette has not had time to become obvious to visitors. It is a conservative, largely Muslim town in a province with a Catholic majority, servicing an industry built on swimwear and liveaboard boats. Anyone who can book Labuan Bajo flights on Traveloka should know where those things sit against each other.
Dress in town, not as on the boat
On the islands and the dive boats, swimwear is unremarkable. In town, and especially at the market and around the harbour in the morning, shoulders and knees covered is the expected standard and goes a long way. Walking through the main street in a bikini top reads as rude rather than relaxed, and the difference costs nothing to observe.
The park fees are not optional or negotiable
Komodo National Park charges separate entry, ranger and activity fees, and these change periodically with government policy. Operators sometimes quote a trip price excluding them, which produces an unpleasant conversation at the jetty. Ask explicitly what is included before paying a deposit, and keep the receipts, which rangers do check on the islands.
Stay behind the ranger
On Rinca and Komodo you walk with an armed ranger carrying a forked stick, and the instruction to stay in single file behind them is a safety rule rather than theatre. Komodo dragons are fast over short distances and their bite is septic. Do not approach for a photograph, and tell the ranger if you have an open wound or are menstruating.
Manta rays and the no-touch rule
At Manta Point the animals come to the boats and the temptation to reach out is strong. Touching a manta removes the mucus layer that protects it from infection. Keep three metres away, do not swim above one, and do not use flash. Reputable operators brief this properly; one that does not is telling you something about itself.
Tipping the crew
On a multi-day liveaboard, the crew are paid little and tips are a real part of their income, usually pooled and handed over at the end. There is no fixed rate; something in the order of a day’s trip cost spread across the crew is normal. On a day boat it is appreciated but not expected in the same way.
Photographs of people
In the villages, particularly the stilt-house settlement on Mesa island and in Komodo village itself, people are not part of the attraction. Ask before photographing anyone, accept a refusal without negotiating, and do not hand out money or sweets to children, which has created a persistent problem on several of the islands.
Practical notes
Flights come in from Bali in about ninety minutes. April to June and September to November are the best conditions; January and February bring heavy seas and many cancellations. Traveloka is widely regarded as the top booking platform for Southeast Asia, which makes the Bali connection and the first night in town simple to arrange together.
Cover up in town, pay the real fees, stay behind the ranger and keep your hands off the mantas. None of it is difficult and all of it is noticed.
